Concealers (Part 3 – Different Formulations)

For the past couple of days I have been discussing concealers – shade selection and application and whether or not you should apply concealer before or after foundation.  Today I will discuss the 5 most popular formulations/packaging of concealers and the specific areas of the face they should be used on.

Tube:  This form of concealer is creamy in texture. Offering a range of coverage from medium to full, this form of concealer is perfect for concealing blemishes on various areas of the face.  This formulation can also be used under the eye, providing that you mix in a little of your eye cream with it for better blending.  Brands that include tube concealers are Makeup Forever Full Cover Concealer, Smashbox High Definition Concealer, Clinique All About Eyes Concealer and Dior DiorSkin Nude Skin Perfecting Hydrating Concealer.

Pot:  Also creamy in texture but tends to be more opaque.  Can be used for dark marks but is best for under eye circles.  Brands that include concealers in this category are Laura Mercier Secret Concealer, Korres Quercetin and Oak Antiageing & Antiwrinkle Concealer, and Makeup Forever Camouflague Cream Palette.

Stick:  These look like lipstick and can be applied directly to the face.  Providing a range of coverages, this form is not recommended for under the delicate eye area because they can drag the skin.  Brands include Smashbox Camera Ready Full Coverage Concealer, Nars Concealer, Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer and Black Opal Flawless Perfecting Concealer.

Wand:  This form, which can be used on all areas of the face,  provides sheer coverage.  Use the wand to apply directly to your skin and blend with a brush or sponge. Brands include, Cover Girl Queen Collection Concealer, YSL Touche Eclat Radiant Touch, Tarte The Eraser 4 in 1 Concealer, Makeup Forever HD Invisible Cover Concealer.

Powder:  This formulation provides sheer to medium coverage and tends not to cake up as much as some of the of the other formulations.  Great for the eye, nose and cheek area.  Brands include Bare Minerals Multitasking Face and Physicians Formula Mineral Wear 3 in 1 Concealer Foundation Powder.

*Whichever formulation you use, please remember to blend, blend, blend :0)

 

Concealers (Part 2 – Conceal Before or After Foundation)

There are two schools of thought on whether to apply concealer before or after foundation.  Some people say to apply the concealer before the foundation when heavier coverage is needed.  Other people say apply the concealer after the foundation because the imperfection is small.  I always tell people to do what works best for them but I personally find that applying concealer after foundation works better because by doing it the other way you are actually pulling (or wiping away) the concealer away from the imperfection you are trying to cover. Follow these steps to ensure that you get the best concealer coverage…

• After prepping your skin with the proper skincare and applying your foundation, select a concealer that mimics your skintone.
• In a stippling motion (bouncing with your finger) apply the concealer to the blemished area (*note:  if you re trying to conceal an acne scar/pimple, try applying an eyeshadow primer to the area to make sure the concealer adheres to the area)
• Be sure the blend away any lines with a blending brush.
• Set your face with translucent powder.

Concealers (Part 1 – Applying Under Eye Concealers)

Dark under eye circles is one of the most common issues for women.  For many, it’s hereditary, for others it poor diet or maybe even a long night out partying.  Either way, selecting the correct under eye concealer can be quite a daunting task and instead of making you look refreshed and awake, the wrong under eye concealer can leave you looking quite haggard, bringing more attention to the area you were trying to conceal.  Even though in most cases, the problem will not go away completely, here are a few tips to help you select the best concealer to help improve the appearance of the under eye circles…

• To begin with, find the correct shade by selecting a shade that mimics your skin tone.  Many people like the “brighter under the eye” look, but if done incorrectly, one can end up with that reverse raccoon look.  So again choose a shade that is close to your skin tone.  Now sometimes when concealers dont work, it has nothing to do with the shade selection.  It has more to do with weather or not you corrected the underlying tone before applying concealer.  In cases like this you would need to use a colored/correcting concealer before applying regular concealer.

• Use a light green concealer to cover up redness such as acne scarring or birthmarks. (usually for areas not under the eye)
• Pink shades tend to brighten as well as cancel out blue or gray tones that usually show up under the eyes.
• Yellow based concealers  also brighten as well as cancel out pink tones. Depending on skin tone, sometimes yellow based concealers look chalky so be careful with your shade selection.
• Orange toned concealers are great for darker skintones as the shade tends to cancel out blue tones under the eyes.

• Next prep the area with an eye cream.  Its important to use an eye cream am/pm to treat/hydrate the area under your eyes.   You tend to use less product (conealer) when the skin is not dry and you also avoid mid-day flaking and caking.
• To find out exactly where to apply the concealer, tilt your chin down and look into the mirror.  The deep crease/indentation that you see is where you need to apply the concealer.
• Build coverage and pat gently.  Dont forget to apply the concealer to the inner corner of the eye and down the sides of the nose as these are the areas that tend to get the pretty dark as well.
• Be sure to blend the edges of the application with a crease brush or finger.
• Set with a translucent powder.

Maybelline Fit Me

So for the past couple of days i have seen this commercial for a new line of makeup from Maybelline called Fit Me.  Initially I sat there watching this commercial with annoyance because i felt like this was just another commercial promoting just another product.  And then I became very intrigued.  I went and did some research and came across a blog/article on stylelist.com that gave me a little more insight about this new product.  The three points of difference from the post that made me raise an eyebrow of interest are:

• All products, foundation, powder, concealer, and blush are made to work together as a full face regimen.
• Powders are labeled the same number as foundations, making it much easier to select the corresponding shade.
• The products will be set out in rows according to shade, instead of by item. So dark powders will be next to dark foundations which will be set next to the blushes and concealers recommended for that skin tone.

I think that this concept is great for customers who are not makeup saavy and/or clients who just want a quick makeup regimen without the fuss as well as a product that leave a natural, flawless finish.

eliminate eye shadow fallout

tired of cleaning up eye shadow fallout – that ominous dark cloud that has fallen around your eye while doing your eye makeup, made even worse when doing a smoky eye?  well here are a few tips, tricks, and time savers  to help you create a flawless face/eye without the hassle…

• do your concealer and/or eye brightners last so you dont have to reapply after wiping up the mess your eyeshadow has created.  this way, after you are done applying your eye makeup, you can use your concealer to “clean-up” the eye area.
• if you have already applied your concealer and you have eyeshadow fallout, put a small amount of primer containing dimethicone such as Smashbox Photofinish Primer (the one that has the “slippery” feeling) on a cotton round to swipe away the fallout without disturbing foundation/undereye concealer.
• use Shadow Shields. i absolutely love using these on clients when on location because it saves me so much time. Shadow Shields are self-adhering, moon shaped, disposable “shields” that catch fallout and eliminates mess.   just apply under the eye before applying eyeshadow and remove when you’re done.  in addition to that, Shadow Shields can also help to create the perfect lip line (bottom lip), again eliminating mess and saving time.   simple yet profound.  $12.99. shadowshields.com

eye prime and treat

there are many awesome eyeshadow primers that i love and use regularly on myself and my clients such as shadow insurance by too faced, urban decay eyeshadow primer potion and smashbox photo finish lid primer.  now im adding to the list Sephora Collection Perfecting Eye Primer.  what i like about this translucent primer is the fact that it can be used around the entire eye area to make your eye makeup/concealer crease proof and long lasting AND it has anti-aging benefits in it to help minimize fine lines and circles .  this product comes in a tube so i use either my finger or a concealer brush to apply.  $14

Redness Solutions

for those of you who suffer from redness such as being flushed or rosacea, there are several skincare and makeup solutions that can bring you some relief…

• Clinique Redness Solutions Makeup: an amazing oil free makeup which color corrects, treats and calms the skin as well as provides amazing coverage.  This formulation contains SPF 15, antioxidants and probiotics,  helping to strengthen the skin barrier.  Appropriate for dry, dry-combination and combination-oily skin. $24.50
• Clinique Redness Solutions Instant Relief Mineral Powder:  a cooling oil free and talc free mineral powder which reduces redness on contact.  Comes with an anti-bacterial brush. $32.50
• Smashbox Halo Redness Reducing Powder:  not only does this powder reduce redness but it also minimizes the signs of aging (hello!).  Studies have shown that in 6 weeks, women saw a 67% decrease in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. $39
• Tarte At Ease Micronized Clay Calming Concealer: this product does double duty with an antioxidant concealer that reduces redness, heals ,calms and soothes, depuffs (yessss!!!) and tones the skin while the setting powder that also calms the skin and reduces dryness.  $30
• Dermadoctor Cool Calm and Corrected:  targets skins with rosacea to combat oiliness, redness, dryness, etc. and it also diminishes visible signs of aging. $85

These products can be found at your local Sephora, Ulta or department store.

 

5 minute beauty smackdown

hey ladies.  i know we are super busy with our hectic schedules and all but that is absolutely no reason to allow ourselves to look a hot friggity mess.  you might be saying “who the %$#! are you?  you dont know anything about me”.  maybe not but i do know you look a hot friggity mess and like me (hectic schedule included) you need to master the art of the beauty smackdown in 5 minutes or less.  let’s get gorgeous!!!!!

the following is my personal method for achieving that flawless face “natural” face sans eyeshadow.  let’s go!!!!!

let’s start with complexion (im assuming that you know you should be cleansing, toning, treating, and moisturing (i am amazed at the amout of women i encounter who either dont wash their face or use body soap and body lotion on their face and wonder why their skin looks a hot friggity mess.  what’s really going on?  you should – oops- im ranting again).  you need a good concealer for any areas of hyperpigmentation like post acne scarring as well as undereye circles.  creamy formulations that come in a tube or pot are best for under the eye area as that area is very delicate and you want to minimize any tugging and pulling.  two of my favorite concealers are makeup forever full cover concealer and laura mercier concealer pots.  makeup forever also has concealer palettes (five colors, one of which is a corrective concealer).  you can apply these products with a concealer brush, your finger or latex/foam applicator (use stippling  (bouncing)  action),  for anywhere on the face except undereye.  for under the eye use a concealer brush or or even a contour/blending brush (use whipping action) for a beautiful air brush affect.

after you have finished with your concealer, apply your foundation primer.  think of when you paint a wall.  you always have to prime it first.  this prevents the paint from absorbing into the wall, prepares a nice even canvas for paint application and helps the paint to stay on longer.  same concept for your face – fills in fine lines, wrinkles, pores, creates a nice even canvas for your foundation and helps your foundation to stay on longer.  smashbox and makeup forever has fantabulous primers so be sure to check out their lineup. 

next apply your favorite foundation formulation. please make sure it is your correct shade and please blend, blend, blend.  currently im using Make Up Forever HD foundation which is a liquid.  i never believed in liquid because i am so oily – no greasy –  so i have only used powder (mac studio fix baby) but  im so totally loving this foundation.  it is oil-free, medium to full coverage with a natural finish that is invisible to the naked eye and high definition cameras.  apply with sephora professinale #55 airbrush for flawless application.  yummy.

well groomed eyebrows, which add shape and symmetry to your face, are an absolute must.  either have them shaped professionally or use an at home solution like ardell cold wax strips (found at cvs and sally beauty supply).  now if you are like me, you need to draw or fill them in.  i personally feel that brow powder like lorac brow powder is perfection.  this palette, which is available in 4 shade kits, comes with two shades of brow powder, clear wax and a brow brush.  use the clear wax to fill in sparse areas and then use the brow powder over the wax.  perfection.  for those of you who prefer a brow pencil, lorac brow pencil and beautique eyeliner (yes, for my brows) (sally beauty supply) are my top picks.

next apply your favorite mascara.  my top 5 picks for mascara are as follows:  maybelline great lash and wet n wild mega wink (both of which can be found at cvs) dior show, givency phenom eye, bare escentuals buxom lash.  mascara is great to use because, depending on the formulation, it will lengthen, curl and volumize.  You get that panoramic view around your eyes that will make your eyes pop. currently i use none of these because im all about wearing my faux lashes baby!!!!!

lips – many choices.  crusty is not one of them.  some of my favorite nudes are bare beige by laura mercier and chelsea girls by nars.  no scratch that.  smashbox just came out with the most wicked nude gloss ever.  my heart races as i talk about it.  anywho – these look great on any skintone.  you can wear them alone or use a brown liner to fill in most of the lip and layer one of these glosses on top.  totally gorge.  yesssss!!!!

if you so choose finish off with a nice blush which adds shape and dimension to the face.  now calm down.  i know what you are thinking.  one of my dear friends starts convulsing violently and foaming at the mouth when i mention blush (ok not really).  she just spews much hatred.  she says it reminds her of a clown.  i understand.  i have seen many women in my daily goings-ons who i thought were circus clown but then realized they had an unfortunate encounter with blush.  the key is to build and blend and it doesnt take much. 

ok.  let’s review:  concealer, primer, brows, foundation, mascara (or lashes), lips, blush.  gorgeous!  you rock!